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Diamond Cutting

Diamond Cutting is the art and skill of turning a diamond from a ‘rough’ stone into a faceted diamond.

Cutting a Diamond

When cutting a diamond there is a process by which diamond cutters adhere to.

1. Inspection

The first thing that happens when a diamond is being cut is that it is taken by the diamond cutter in its’ rough state and inspected. It is carefully assessed to determine the yield. Put simply, what is the optimum shape to get the largest, most valuable end product that can be sold in current market conditions?

2. Planning

The cutter will then take the ‘rough’ and use various modelling techniques to plan how best to start the cutting process. It is at this stage that the cutting style is determined. He will often check the positions of the inclusions and polish a small facet to have a closer internal inspection of the raw diamond.

3. Cleaving

Once the Planning process has been thoroughly understood the cutter is then in the position to start the first cut. Each diamond crystal has two halves that are separated by a cleavage line. The cutter needs to find this cleavage line and saw or cleavage the diamond crystal in half. Diamond dust and other diamond cutting products are used as only diamonds are hard enough to cut other diamonds.

4. Bruting

Once the diamond is cleaved and there are two halves of ‘rough’ the diamond can then be shaped. The two halves are set onto spinning axles, turning in opposite directions, grinding against each other to shape the diamond. The girdle of the diamond now appears.

5. Faceting

The two halves that have been shaped to have a girdle are then each placed in a large clamp that is moved across a cast iron wheel, a ‘scaife’ which is impregnated with diamond dust. The ‘facets’ of the diamond are cut out of the stone. They are constantly assessed by the cutter to ensure the correct angles are being achieved to ensure ‘brilliance’ is being maximised.

6. Order of Faceting

The first facet to be cut is the table facet, this is then followed by the kite facets, pavilion facets, crown facets and finally the culet. For a round brilliant cut there should be a total of 57 facets plus a culet.

7. Finishing

The final finishing is undertaken by the diamond cutter who cleans the diamond, checks the proportions and ensures the high quality of polish and symmetry has been achieved.

Cutting Style

The cutting style is the pattern of the facet arrangement. Each diamond that is cut, can be cut in one of three styles, 'brilliant', 'step' or 'mixed'. Round diamonds are most often cut in the 'brilliant' style, therefore lending their name to 'round brilliant cut'. This style of cut places the facets in positions so as to maximise total internal reflection and therefore 'brilliance'. Emerald or trap cut diamonds are cut in a 'stepped' fashion which allows light to enter deeply into the stone. A cushion cut diamond is an example of a 'mixed' cut, this style of cut is a mixture of the 'brilliant' and 'stepped'.


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